Knockdown Texture

Knockdown Texture is a wall and ceiling finishing textured application. Knockdown texture is created by watering down joint compound to a sour cream consistency. A trowel is then used to apply the joint compound. The joint compound will begin to form stalactites as it dries. The trowel is then run over the surface of the drywall, knocking off the stalactites and leaving the mottled finish.

A much more common, and faster technique is to apply the texture mud (which is slightly different from joint compound, in that it has less shrinkage upon drying) with a texture machine – a compressor which sprays mud instead of paint. This applies what is referred to as a splatter coat. The use of a compressor allows this to be applied to walls as well as ceilings. When knocking this down, the mud is allowed to dry for a short period, then skimmed with a knockdown knife – a large, usually plastic (to reduce noticeable edges) knife.

Knockdown texture reduces construction costs because it conceals imperfections in the drywall that result from the use of lower-skilled drywall installers.

Resilient Tile (Vinyl, Asphalt, Linoleum)

Vinyl, Asphalt and Linoleum floor tiles, also called "Resilient Tile" can be easily repaired or better yet replaced. Apply heat to the tile to soften the adhesive (glue or paste) by using a hair dryer, heat lamp, flood light or a small portable heater. Use caution when using heat. Heat can cause tiles to melt, warp, even catch fire! Apply tile at a safe distance. After tile has become soft, use a scraper or putty knife to lift and peel off tile. Clean area of all old adhesive and dirt. Apply new adhesive and lay new tile in place. Press down on tile to spread out adhesive and then place a small object or small weight to hold tile in place until adhesive dries (minimum 24 hours).

WALLPAPERING

Preparation:

By applying oil-based primer to walls, this will protect walls from moisture and make future stripping easier. Once primer has dried, lightly sand walls. Next, paint sizing on walls with a roller and brush so paste can adhere. A color tint will appear to show an even coverage. Use a level to draw a vertical line from the ceiling to the floor starting 8 inches from the corner. Then draw vertical lines from the ceiling to the floor one width of the roll of wallpaper. Next measure the height from the baseboard to the ceiling. Mark off this distance plus 4 to 5 inches on the first strip of wallpaper. Cut the first strip to the correct length. Increase the length of subsequent strips as necessary to match patterns. Apply paste to the first strip of wallpaper, starting from the top. There should be an arrow to indicate which end is up, if not turn strip over to face side to check the pattern. Now double over (fold) about 1/6 of the paper's length from one end so the paste side is touching. NOTE: Don't crease the fold or it will show when the paper is hung. From the other end, fold over about half of the remaining length, almost touching the top and bottom edges. TIP: This called "booking"

Wallpaper Hanging Steps:

Drape paper over your arm and take it to your starting wall. Apply the top of the wallpaper about 1-1/2 to 2 inches over the ceiling line. Allow the overage to extend onto the ceiling, unfurl the top section, holding the right edge against your vertical line and press into place. Next, using a wallpaper brush, brush paper to stick to the wall and push out air bubbles. Working from top to bottom and from the center to the sides. Now unfold the bottom half, holding it along the vertical line, press and brush quickly!The may become dry and the air bubbles will be harder to be removed. Next, press the blade of your spackle knife into the ceiling joint to crease the paper. Then cut off the excess paper along the crease with a utility knife, using spackle knife as a straight edge and wipe off excess paste. Brush strip of wallpaper again and cut excess paper at the bottom, using spackle knife as a straight edge. Position subsequent strip on the wall about 1/4 inch away, then slide it gently into place. If paper doesn't slide easily , gently lift paper and re-position it and then brush. Once the wallpaper has been up for 15 minutes, press the seams firmly with a roller and wipe off excess paste with a lint-free rag.

Tools and Materials Needed:

Drywall Finishing (Mud and Taping)

Drywall taping can be not only frustrating, but also messy!  You'll need some basic drywall tools before starting the taping process.  You'll need a  4" ,6" and 8" putty knife, mud pan, drywall tape, 10" and 12" drywall trowel, step ladder (6' to 8'), mixing drill, sanding sponge, drop clothe or a roll of plastic and joint compound (5 gallons +).  Once you've laid out your drop clothes, fixed any damaged corners (scoring) or holes.  Have all corner beads in place and dimpled all screw holes, you're ready to begin!  There are different types of drywall tape you can purchase and also the same with joint compound, but we'll discuss that at a later date.  Mix joint compound with water at the manufacturers recommendation or to a creamy type consistency.  FIRST COAT: Fill mud pan and apply mud to the butt joints first (vertical lines) using the 4" putty knife.  Then apply the tape over the mud, pressing the tape onto the mud with your finger tips.  Use your 4" knife at the stopping point to cut the tape.  By holding your knife on top of the tape against the drywall panel and pull tape.  This will give you a clean cut, without using a utility knife, which can cut into the drywall panel.  Now go back to your starting point, hold tape edge with your finger tips and take your putty knife (hold it at an angle) and squeeze out the excess mud.  Repeat the same steps with the tapered joints (horizontal lines).  Now for taping inside corners, fold tape in half along the crease line.  Apply mud to the inside corners, apply tape and squeeze out excess mud one side at a time (be careful not to rip tape).  Fill in screw holes (fastener holes), by forming a line of mud upward over the row of drywall screws and then scrape off in a downward motion.   Note: After every application on mud, clean putty knife or trowel off, by scraping it across the side of the mud pan. This allows you to scrape the mud off to have a clean and feathered out tape line.  Now some contractors pass on taping the corner beads, but for the D.I.Y. I would recommend taking this step to avoid future corner bead cracks.  Now that you have applied all your mud, let applications dry to the recommended time by the manufacturer.  Once the mud has dried, using a sanding sponge or paper.  Lightly sand any imperfections.  SECOND COAT: Again mix joint compound to the consistency of creamy potatoes.  Load mud pan and apply mud on the top side of the tape with a 8" putty knife and remove excess mud (butt joints first and tapered joints second). Applying mud to corners this time is a little more trickier! Apply mud to one side of tape on the ceilings with a 6" knife and alternate the sides for the wall corners.  Fill in the corner beads and the center.  Using a 10" trowel, smooth out the mud and feather the edges.  Let dry and sand imperfections.  THIRD COAT: Now repeat the steps given for the second coat. Apply mud to the butt joints first and then the tapered joints using a 10" or 12" trowel.  Applying mud to the other side of the tape with a 6" knife.  Using a 12" trowel apply another coat to the corner bead.  Let dry and sand entire surface to a smooth finish.

Reviving Weathered Deck

If your deck is gray, weathered and discolored, but not yet deteriorated. Hammer down any nails and loose boards. Spray deck with bleach or a cleaning solution. The solution will make a foaming action to let you know it's working. Let foam work into the wood for about 5 to 10 minutes or what's recommended by the manufacturer. Don't allow the solution to dry. Scrub with a brush and then rinse. Let the deck dry for at least 48 hour. Then apply a semitransparent stain or clear finish.

Measuring A Room For Paint

Steps:

WALLS

1. Measure the Length of each wall.
2. Then measure the Height of each wall
3. Add the Length and Height to get your total (square feet)
4. Divide the total square footage by 400 to get the number of gallons of paint needed

CEILINGS

1. Add Length and Width = total (square feet)

Divide total by 400 to get the number of gallons needed

Note: For rough surfaces divide total by 300 to get the number of gallons needed

Measuring A Squar Foot

Steps:                                                        (Tip: Add 10% for waste)

1. Have a measuring tape, paper and pencil
2. Measure the length and then the width
3. Muiltiply length x width = Total
4. Divid 10% for any waste of cutting materials  (if no cuts are to be made, then skip this step)
5. Add Square Footage + 10% = Total  
6. Follow these steps for all walls in area
7. Add square footage of each wall (square feet + square feet =) for a grand total

Painting Your House With A Airless Paint Sprayer

Like most folks, painting the outside of your home isn't high on your list of projects. Spray painting the exterior of your house may seem like a quick way to get the job done, in some cases this is true. But, know this type of job isn't for everybody, nor is it for every house. One of the most hardest part of spray painting a house is the preparation work required. For a fast and professional looking paint job, may require the rental of a heavy duty professional paint sprayer. You'll need other equipment like, an extension ladder, drop cloths, plastic, painters tape, masking paper, ladder jacks and planks or scaffold for steady footing and easier mobility. Before spraying your house cover all windows, doors, trim, lighting, outside outlets and switches. Cover other objects you don't want painted like shrubs, sidewalk and foundation with drop cloth and plastic. Test sprayer on a small area like a piece plywood or cardboard to perfect the spraying technique. Keep the gun 8 to 10in. from the surface when painting. When the outside of your home make sure you watch your local news for weather conditions. Not only do you not want to paint in rainy, snowy, cold or in extreme heat, but you don't want to paint in windy condition even if everything is covered. Use a paint suit, eyewear, respirator and gloves. If you don't have a paint suit, wear long sleeves and pants.

Galvanized Metals

In order for paint to adhere on galvanized steel gutters and downsprouts, louvers, mailboxes and other area on the home's exterior, the metal must either age (oxidze) for a year or be treated with with a chemical that will etch the surface. Then clean off any grease, oil or handprints with a rag soaked in laquer thinner. Prime the metal with a galvanized metal primer (primer can be tinted the color of the top coat). Apply 2 coats of paint (check with your paint suppier to make sure the top coat is compatible with primer).

Wrought Iron

 

For rusting and peeling wrought iron, wire brush and scape throroghly to remve all loose and flaking material. Sand all spots as close as possible to bare metal, feathering the edges of the old paint. Spot prime with a rust-inhibiting metal primer-an alkyd- or oil-base primer, then paint with an oil base top coat. Oil-base is more effective than Latex paint because it will not leave small pinholes for water to seep through and cause further rust.

Removing Pop-Corn Ceiling

If your Inexperienced or a Do-It-Yourself er and want to remove Pop-Corn Texture from your ceiling. Simply get a garden sprayer, a 6' ladder or two 4' ladders and a plank (much faster). Also a 6"- 8" scraper or putty knife, plastic drop cloth (Caution slippery when wet). To avoid slipping place an old bed sheet over plastic drop cloth. You will need a hat, eye protection and a face mask. Ok, now that you got all your equipment, next lay down drop cloth and set-up ladder. Fill up the garden sprayer with warm to hot water. Then spray textured ceiling in a 4x5 section, wait a few seconds to let the texture soak up the water and then scrap area. Just repeat steps in sequence.

Painting Double-hung Windows

When painting windows, start by raising the lower (inner) sash as high as it will go, then lower the upper sash all the way down. Next paint the lower half of the upper sash. Then slide each sash back into normal position (the upper one at the top and the lower one at the bottom), leaving each one open an inch or two top and bottom. Paint the rest of the upper and lower sashes, first coating the narrow strips between the panes of glass, then outerr frame of each sash. Also paint the top edge, the frame around the the window is painted next, again from top to bottom. The windowsill is done last.

How Much Paint Do You Need?

Multiply the length of each wall (corner to corner) by the height of the wall (floor to ceiling) and then add them together. Divide the total by 400 to get the quantity of paint needed per coat. Divide total by 300 for textured or rough surfaces. Deduct the measurements for windows and doors from your wall total when estimating how much wall paint is needed. For ceiling and floor, multiply the length by the width and divide the total by 400 to get the quantity needed.

Cutting and Breaking Gypsum board

Using a Tape Measure and a carpenters pencil, measure where your cuts will be and mark them. Using a T-Square and a utility knife, also called a box cutter. Cut the board on its face side all the way to its core. Guide the knife with the T-Square to make a straight cut. Then brake the board by folding it towards you going with the cut. Then using your utility knife cut the back of the gypsum board along its crease and your cut will be made..